Ardnamurchan
'To the edge of the world...'
It's a little known fact (well I didn't know before I went there) that Ardnamurchan
Point (pronounced 'ardnamercan'), on the west coast of Scotland, is the
most westerly point of the mainland United Kingdom. That's got to be worth
a few points in a pub quiz. But this little visited edge of civilisation
is not the only reason to be in that part of the world. To get to the lighthouse
that stands on the point, you will have travelled though scenery of
rare beauty and variety.
The Ardnamurchan peninsula offers expansive views across pristine lochs,
ruined castles, ancient woodlands, wildlife and so much more. I think you
can probably tell I am rather fond of the place and come to think of it
I'm not sure I should be telling you all this as I want to keep it to myself.
But I have always been a sharing sort of bloke so here are some of my favourite
haunts in the area.
Sanna Bay
A few miles north from the lighthouse at the point, and only accessible
via a winding single-track road, as so many places are in this neck of the
woods. Sanna Bay is a glorious, unspoilt crescent of gleaming
white sands and sporadic rocks. You need the sun to be out to get the
full effect but if it is you will be glad you made the effort to get there.
For more information have a look at www.sannabay.co.uk.
Castle Tioram
Castle Tioram (pronounced 'cheerum') is no more than a ruin now but in it's
heyday it was a key strategic position guarding one of the entrances to
Loch Moidart. The tidal range means you can actually walk out to the ruin
from the beach at low tide, but at high tide it is cut off. A high tide
in the evening can provide for some fantastic
reflections. More details on the castle and it's history can be found
at www.moidart.org.uk.
Garbh Eilean Wildlife Hide
The hide is collaborative effort by conservation groups and local residents
and the result is a remarkable construction. The viewing platform is reached
via paths that wind through the woods so as to reduce any noise from parking
cars (a path suitable for wheelchairs connects dedicated disabled parking).
Once there you have a grandstand view of Loch Sunart and a small island
off shore that serves as home to a group of seals. You may also see heron
and, if you are very lucky, and very patient, an otter. I can vouch for
the otter as I did see one here but I had to wait all day for a five minute
glimpse. It was worth it though. More information on the hide and the local
wildlife can be found at www.sunartoakwoods.org.uk.
Sunart Woodlands
The woodlands around Sunart, which you will pass through on the way to Ardnamurchan,
are some the oldest natural broadleaf woods in the country. A long term
project is currently underway to restore the area to it's original state
by removing much of the recent pine encroachment. This activity can lead
to some parts having that 'just visited by a tornado' look but this will
pass in time and it's worth it for the long term gain. More information
on the restoration project and the surrounding woods can be found at www.sunartoakwoods.org.uk.
On a health and safety note, if you go between April and September you will
no doubt encounter the dreaded midge. Ardnamurchan is no different from
many other parts of Scotland in this respect but forewarned is forearmed.
Go prepared.
For much more detailed information on things to do and places to stay in
the area I recommend you have a look at the Ardnamurchan area website www.ardnamurchan.com.
There are a number of excellent hotels and bed and breakfasts to choose
from but I suggest you check out
Otterburn House bed and breakfast in Strontian as a place to stay. It's
small (one twin room and one double room) but in my humble opinion you will
be hard pressed to match the quality of accommodation and Mike is a host
beyond compare. I never stay anywhere else.
About the author: David Stanley is a freelance photographer concentrating
on landscape
and travel images. He has growing portfolios of royalty free images
with Alamy
and istockphoto.
For more articles and reviews, along with a selection of his work available
as open and limited edition prints, please visit his website at www.davidstanleyphotography.com.
(If you are reproducing this article please ensure you include the 'About
the author' footer in full on each occasion. Thanks.)
