Venice
Gondolas, churches, canals, art, history...pigeons.
Here's a tip for you. If you are visiting a city for the first time,
take a map. A nice, detailed, street map. One with the names of 'all'
the streets on it and preferably one with a really neat little index
that tells you in which grid square the street you are looking for can
be found. That would be a sensible thing to do. A safe thing to do.
Which, presumably, is precisely the reason why, on our visit to Venice
last year, my girlfriend and I didn't.
'We are travellers' we told ourselves, not tourists, and have no need
for such frippery. How hard could it be to find a hotel we had been
reliably informed was 'Just off St. Mark's Square'? We have a natural
sense of direction and a street sense honed by years of exposure to
varied and disparate cultures. We are also, it would seem, prone to
episodes of remarkable stupidity. As the waterbus chugged back into
the night we couldn't have been more lost if we had been driven there
in the back of a van and spun round three times before having our blindfolds
removed. To be fair this wasn't actually too far from the truth. It
was November, and our flight had landed just as the sun was setting,
so by the time we boarded the waterbus to St. Mark's it was as dark
as a basement illuminated by a single 40-watt bulb, during a power cut.
To this day I suspect the driver just went round in circles in the lagoon
for an hour and a half before deciding we'd had enough and releasing
us onto dry land.
The strange thing is that we didn't 'feel' lost. Venice is one of those
remarkable places that seem somehow engrained in our cultural memory.
Maybe it's all those films that have been shot there. Off the top of
my head I can think of at least three James Bond movies, one Indiana
Jones and that scary one with the small person in a red duffle coat.
Not forgetting the cultural and historical stuff in books and on TV.
I have no doubt that you could show a picture of the Rialto Bridge to
as yet undiscovered tribes of pygmy Indians deep in the Amazon rain
forest, and to a man they would just shrug and say 'It's the Rialto
Bridge innit.' (These being streetwise and trendy undiscovered pygmy
Indians who speak English with an MTV accent.) Such is the iconic status
of 'La Serinissima'.
So, armed with nothing more than an unfounded sense of familiarity,
a street name, a cheap guidebook and a basic grasp of Italian (It's
worth noting that 'ciao' appears to mean both 'hello' and 'goodbye',
and that 'prego' means pretty much anything you want.) we set off into
the night.
Two hours later we arrived back where we had started, but by now we
possessed both an intimate knowledge of the narrow, winding streets
surrounding the immediate area, and a much better guidebook. Ten minutes
after that we arrived at the Hotel Orion, our base for the next four
days, which, it turns out, really is just off St. Mark's Square.
I have no problem recommending the Hotel
Orion as it is clean, comfortable, friendly, very reasonable in
terms of cost and excellent in terms of position. It is however, more
a bed and breakfast than a 'hotel', as are many such establishments
around Italy, and, in common with many such establishments in Venice,
it has no lift. Worth bearing in mind if stairs are not your thing.
We were lucky enough to get what appeared to be the one room with a
bathroom whose window looked out along the street, rather than across
it, (please don't ask me what the room number was) and as a result I
was able to take a great view of the Calle
Spaderia with the domes of St. Mark's Basilica in the background.
Having a girlfriend who didn't object to me setting up a tripod in the
bathroom also helped.
After a night spent listening to what sounded like the local bell ringing
competition, and a breakfast of coffee and croissants with lashings
of blackcurrant jam, we set forth to explore our new world. I do have
to admit that my normal mask of detached professionalism had slipped
a bit. The words 'giddy as', 'schoolboy' and 'sweetshop' were probably
more appropriate, but I had wanted to spend serious time in Venice for
years. I had been before, some years ago, but just managed an afternoon
and that only served to whet my appetite. But where to start? Silly
question really, in Venice all 'roads' lead to St. Mark's Square.
With the coming of daylight that comforting sense of familiarity had
returned. This is possibly due to the way Venice 'does' grand, only
on a human scale. The palaces and churches are wonderful but you never
feel overpowered. The streets are intimate rather than claustrophobic.
That may be due to the time of year. I suspect a return visit in the
peak tourist season may temper that view. Venice does 'shabby chic'
like no other city I know. It's time worn pavements and buildings almost
possessing the patina of antique furniture.
Back in St. Mark's Square we had been joined by 40 or 50 other early
morning 'travellers' and what seemed like 40 or 50,000 pigeons. A photo
opportunity I couldn't really ignore. All public spaces attract
these examples of urban wildlife and all city authorities spend inordinate
amounts of taxpayers' money combating the damage they do. Odd then that
the Venetian city fathers see fit to allow bird seed sellers at each
corner of the square. Maybe they are intended to draw the beaked invaders
away from the pavement cafes, as these birds know no fear when it comes
to food. We dropped into a MacDonalds one afternoon for a snack (yes,
the golden arches grace even this fair city) and found ourselves sharing
the inside of the 'restaurant' with around a dozen pigeons who had figured
out the automatic entrance doors. I suspect we were actually witnessing
evolution in progress.
Away from the feathered throng of St. Marks you quickly start to encounter
the canals that define Venice in so many ways and offer up a wealth
of potential images. You could contrast the ornate gondolas against
the 'distressed' brick of the buildings. Suggest mystery with a small
bridge leading into the unknown. Play light against dark. Bear in mind
that when I say dark, I mean 'dark'. The nature of Venice is such that
the streets are often only 10 or 12 feet wide but the buildings can
be up to 50 feet high. That image of Calle
Spaderia I mentioned earlier illustrates this beautifully. For the
casual tourist this is not a problem. For the photographer it can be
a bloody nightmare. Go prepared. Take a monopod, or a tripod, but of
course be careful where you use the latter in such confined spaces.
If all else fails, be prepared to crank up the ISO rating of your film
or digital camera.
The latticework of streets crosses the network of canals on a regular
basis but obviously they never actually meet. This sometimes creates
a disconcerting feeling of parallel worlds inhabiting the one space.
Having said that, very quickly you just accept them and move around
accordingly. That is not to say they don't sometimes frustrate as there
appears to be no logic as to where bridges are placed and often we found
ourselves having to backtrack and detour up to a quarter of a mile to
get to somewhere tantalisingly just the other side of a narrow but impassable
gap. Venice is not a large city but you will walk a long way to see
the sights.
Of course you could always just take to the water. Even if you spend
only a day in Venice you will lose track of the number of times a man
in a straw hat and a stripy sweater offers to take you for a ride. My
advice? Do it. Sure it's touristy. Of course it's a cliché. But this
is Venice. It would be rude not to. Here's another little tip though.
You are about to be relieved of a heart-stopping amount of money for
a 30-minute spin in a 20ft black banana. (Don't worry if the boat looks
bent. They are meant to be like that. Ask your friendly 'gondolier'
to explain why.) We had a boat to ourselves (just call me an old romantic)
and it came to about £80. So, make sure it really is a gondola. Look
for the fancy metal 'comb' at the front, apparently only genuine gondolas
have these. You will see other boats that look almost identical except
they have no comb. They are cheaper boats so you shouldn't really be
paying gondola prices. Of course it really makes no difference once
you are on board, the views are just the same. Some guidebooks will
tell you a gondola ride is a rip off and you should use the waterbus,
or 'vaporetto', to get around. It's true that they are significantly
cheaper, and if you want to get up and down the Grand Canal in a hurry
then go for it. But they don't go down the side canals much so you won't
encounter that hidden face of Venice that you can only see from the
water, and, let's be honest, you probably won't be back this way soon
and a vaporetto ride isn't on most peoples '50 things to do before you
die' list. I would suggest a gondola ride is.
Contrary to popular belief Venice is not all canals. There are a number
of squares dotted about that allow visitors and locals alike to stretch
their legs a little. Campo
Santa Margherita is one such space. Home to a number of bars and
cafes it is a lovely spot to pause a while and recharge the batteries
while deciding where to go next. Be careful when you order your coffee
though. The waiter won't question you when you inadvertently order 'Uno
café per fevore' and will dutifully provide you with a thimble of rocket
fuel that will certainly put a spring in your step. Stick with a 'café
latte' or a 'café americano', unless you really do have an uncontrollable
urge to annihilate a few spare brain cells.
November is statistically the wettest month in Venice. So of course
we just had to go in November! I seem to have an almost shaman like
ability to choose the worst moment to visit a location. But this time
it actually worked to my advantage. Instead of rain we got fog. Venice
in the fog is fantastic. Venice in the evening
in the fog is magical. The warm glow of the streetlights and the
softened outlines of the gothic arches of St. Mark's are pure theatre.
I have to admit we did get rained on once, on the one night we got dressed
up for dinner by the Grand Canal of course, which is not as expensive
as you might think if you hunt around. We got two courses and wine for
about £50 between us sitting on the side of the Grand Canal within a
bread roll toss of the Rialto Bridge. Although I think we mortally offended
the headwaiter by ordering lasagne and chips! I also have to admire
the market savvy of the street sellers who went from hawking roses and
fake handbags to supplying umbrellas within five minutes of the first
few drops hitting the pavement.
So if you don't go in November when should you go? I would have to say
'anytime you like' as Venice has something to offer regardless of the
weather. I would caution against February though as this is when the
famous carnival takes place. The streets will be wedged and you will
be hard pressed to get accommodation. Of course if you are actually
going for the carnival itself then fair enough and good luck to you.
I would also suggest you avoid July and August as you will get an uncomfortable
combination high visitor numbers and even higher temperatures. I believe
Venetians themselves head for the hills in August so perhaps we should
follow their example.
Now would perhaps be a good time to dispel a myth. Contrary to popular
belief, Venice doesn't stink. The lagoon is tidal so the canals are
constantly replenished and circulating. To be fair, some of the smaller
canals furthest from the main waterways, where the water doesn't circulate
as quickly, do emit a slight ozone bouquet, and in the heat of summer
I am prepared to admit this will become more noticeable, but I never
found it a problem and it's certainly more than compensated for by the
absence of traffic fumes. While we're in myth busting mode here's another.
Venice is no longer sinking. The pumping of fresh water from the substrata
beneath the city has been stopped, removing the threat of further settling.
However, I suspect that Venetians are more aware than most of the possible
impact of global warming on sea levels. We are not in 'last chance to
see' territory yet but evidence is all around of the levels that previous
high tides have reached and it's not likely to improve.
Palaces, churches, art, history, oh the agony of choice, but if you
only have one day in Venice make sure that you at least visit the following:
St. Mark's Campanile
Originally constructed in the ninth century as a watchtower the 50 metre
high Campanile (don't worry, there is a lift) has been repeatedly restored
and enhanced over the years due to damage from a number of fires and
at least one earthquake. Its last rebuild was completed in 1912 after
a complete collapse in 1902. The tower provides a 360 degree panorama
over the rooftops including the domes of the Basilica. Bags are not
allowed in the tower and have to be checked in to a storeroom by the
ticket office at the base. You can take cameras up though as long as
you take it out of it's bag first.
St. Mark's Basilica
A spectacular blend of Gothic and Byzantine architecture, the Basilica
is a must see for any visit to Venice. The gold mosaics of the interior
are all the more remarkable if you consider their age. The current building
was consecrated in 1094 although a church has stood on the site since
828. Photography is not allowed inside but cameras are. This is fortunate
as once inside you can access the slightly precarious first floor terrace
at the front, which affords a splendid view across St. Marks Square
from behind the replica bronze horses (the originals are now displayed
inside). Just like the Campanile bags are not allowed. But the bag check
is out of the Basilica, turn right, turn left, along a bit and into
a non-descript building on your right. My tip? Go up the Campanile first
and leave your bag there while you visit the Basilica, which is only
about 30yards away.
The Doge's Palace
Next door to the Basilica, and dating back to the ninth century, (the
current building was constructed between 1309 and 1424) the Doge's Palace
was the seat of government for an empire. The wealth and influence of
the Doges is evident throughout the building including the largest painting
on canvas in the world, Tintoretto's 'Paradise'. The palace also functioned
as a court and is linked across a canal to the prison by the famous
Bridge
of Sighs. So named after the 'sighs' of the condemned as they were
led away. A visit to the palace allows you to retrace their steps across
the bridge and see the prison for yourself. It will come as no surprise
to you that, you guessed it, bags are not allowed, but cameras are as
long as you don't take pictures in the rooms.
But if this was all you saw it would be a shame. Venice is much more
than the sum of it's parts. It is more than just a scattering of architectural
curios. It is more than just carnival masks, gondolas and Murano glass.
Venice is atmosphere, history, time. To appreciate the city you have
to wander. Put away that street map I told you to buy and lose yourself
in the labyrinth of streets and bridges and canals. Relax, explore and
discover. You only have a couple of days? You're just going to have
to come back another time then aren't you? And if you should happen
to see a photographer and his faithful assistant looking like they are
hopelessly lost don't worry, we have a natural sense of direction and
a street sense honed by years of exposure to varied and disparate cultures.
Honestly!
About the author: David Stanley is a freelance photographer concentrating
on landscape
and travel images. He has growing portfolios of royalty free images
with Alamy
and istockphoto.
For more articles and reviews, along with a selection of his work available
as open and limited edition prints, please visit his website at www.davidstanleyphotography.com.
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